CopenhagenAndItsEnvirons

ft

KØBENHAVNS RÅDHUSBIBLIOTEK Hag 0 °iL

■

£k. £

RHB

/A n s .

KØBENHAVNS RÅDHUSBIBUOTEK

! ( 4 f a k v L f t C v i

vt-K -

s L CTU)

&c

y { t f ^ j j i

THE

* TRAVELLERS’ HAND-BOOK y> TO

COPENHAGEN \ AND DTi [EWW3!F5®W§.

BY ^ngl tranua.

WITH MAPS AND VIEWS.

COPENHAGEN. CHR. STEEN AND SON.

36 SOHO SQ.

J . RUSSELL SM ITH.

LONDON .

M D C CC LIII.

PR IN TE D BY LO l’IS K LEIN ,

S e v e r a l English T rav ellers having, a t v arious tim es, expressed to me the w ant of a H an d-B oo k for (more imm ediately) Copenhagen and its E nvirons, I, acting on th eir suggestion — indeed, I m ay say, acceding to th eir req uest — have given m y leisure tim e to the com pilation o f such a w ork — hence the present G uide. T h e P u b lish e rs, M essrs. Steen and Son, have, w ith th eir usual lib e ra lity , spared no expense in the getting up of th e b o o k , the M aps o f which e sp e cially , engraved expressly for it, evince how m uch con amove th ey have entered into the un ­ dertaking. T o those F riend s and G e n tlem en , who so kindly lent me th eir assistance and so readily provided me w ith inform ation in their respective d ep artm en ts, I here beg to tender m y w arm est th an k s: nor m ust I fail in m y acknow ledgm ents to a Guide, in D anish, published last year.

Should this B ook aid the English T rav eller in his searches a fte r the interesting objects in this celebrated C ap ital; in his visits to the v ario u s spots o f b eau ty and attraction in its pleasin g E n v iro n s — in short, should it satisfy him as his Vade Mecum in this p a rt of S ealan d , the object o f the A u th o r will h av e been a tta in e d , and his leisure h o u rs profitably em ployed.

CON TEN T S.

P a g e. CO PENH AG EN ...................................................................................... 1. British Legation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14. Consul and V ice-C o n su ls.......................................

Id.

STREETS, SQUARES, & c ....................................................................16.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS: Churches , ........................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19. Fruekirke .................. . 19. St. Petrikirke .................................................... . . . 21. Trinitatiskirke (Round Tower) 22. British C hapel.................. 26. Inscription on Monument in Naval Burial Ground . , 28. &c Palaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....................................29. Christiansborg .......................................... Rosenborg ....................................................... Charlottenborg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33. &c.

29.

Page.

GOVERNMENT AND MUNICIPAL BUILDINGS . . . . 35. Town Hall 36. Exchange , ...................... . 36. Bank ............................................................................................ 37. Custom House , 41. Post Office . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42. &c.

LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS : University . . . . . . .

, 44. . 48. , 50.

Public Libraries Reading Rooms

Clubs

............................................................................... 52.

MILITARY AND NAVAL E STA BL ISHM EN T S................ 54. L ist of the Danish Navy , ...................... 58. Inscription on Monument onNyholm. . . . . . . . 59. M ilitary High S c h o o l....................... 61. Naval A c a d e m y ....................... 62. &c. SOCIETIES FOR SCIENTIFIC ANDUSEFUL PURPOSES 65. Schools, &c. .......................... 70. Hospitals , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , 73. Charitable Institutions, ....... ................... 77. ACADEMY OF ARTS, &c.............................................................. 81. Museum and Public G alleries . 84. COMMERCE AND T R A D E ......................................................... 94. Booksellers .............................. 100.

THEATRES AND PUBLIC PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 104.

Page.

HOTELS, CAFÈS , &c........................................................................111. Oyster and Refreshment Rooms ..........................113.

PR OM E N A D E S..............................

114.

D IL IG E NC E S...........................................................................................119. Omnibuses . ..................... 119. Droschker — Cabs . 120. Porterage , 121. W eights and Measures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122. M oney. . ............................. . . . . . . 123. Passports . . . . . . . . . . . , 124. Foreign Consulates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126. S T E A M E R S ..............................................................................................127. Railway , 135. Electric Telegraph . , 136.

A LIST OF PUBLIC COLLECTIONS (to be viewed gratis) 138.

ENVIRONS . .........................

143.

Frederiksberg Palace Roeskilde Cathedral

, 146.

..........................

148. 154.

Jægerspriis

Frederiksværk Frederiksborg

.................. . . . . . . . . . 156.

157. Fredensborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164. Elsinore ................................................................165. Sound-Dues 170. Charlottenlund 171. Inscription on a Stone , , , , 172. K lam penborg.......................... 172. &c. &c. Island of Amager ................................................175.

Page. DEACHSHOLM................................................................................176.

SONG OF THE WATCHMAN.........................................................185.

ADDENDA:

Free Masons’ L o d g e ..............................

189.

&c.

KIÓBENHAVN. - COPENHAGEN.

JLn the m ost ancient chronicles and docum ents the p resent city o f Kiobenhavn is styled only by its last syllable flcivn (the h av en ). B ut as trad e in creased , and m erchan t vessels frequented th at harb o u r, the place w as called Kiobmcendhavn (the haven of m erc h an ts); w h ic h , by e llip sis, h as been converted into Kiobenhavn , its p resen t nam e. B y other nations, as the E nglish and G erm an, it is called Copenhagen, a n d , by the French, Copenhague. T he natives o f Iceland still call it Kaupmannahofn. Its L atin nam e has a lw ay s been Hafnia. In p oetry we m eet w ith it as Axel-stad (the city o f Axel). In the y e ar 116 4, K ing W ald em a r the F irst m ade a g ra n t o f this tow n with the adjoining lan d s

2 to the celebrated A xel H v id e , (Absolon, B ishop o f R oeskilde, afterw ard s A rchbishop of L u nd), w ho, in 1168, on the spot w hich C h ristiansborg P alace now occupies, erected a castle, for the purp o se o f keeping the p irates in a w e , w hich after him w as called A xel-hu us. T his P re late afterw ards bestow ed the castle and tow n, w ith the lands o f Am ager or A m ak , on the See of R oeskilde. M unicipal law s w ere first granted to it by B ishop E rlan dsen in 1254; and ro y a l priv ileg es in 1284 by K ing E ric G lipping. T h e tow n having now becom e m ore im p o rtan t than any o ther as a place of ro y al residence, attem p ts w ere m ade by several kings to recover it from the See o f Roeskilde. F o r nearly two centuries, h ow everr th ese attem p ts w ere vain. It w as no t till the reign of C hristoph er o f B av aria, w ho, in the y e ar 1443r selecting Copenhagen as his residence, th a t an y th in g like an arrangem ent w as entered in to ; although, w h atev er the exchange m ight have b e e n , it w as denied b y the B ish o p s, at the election of C hristian the F ir s t, the successor o f C h risto p h er, th at any h a d been m ade. T h e first K ing o f the Oldenburg- line , C hristian I., se e m s, how ever, to have suc­ ceeded in th a t o b ject, the B ishop and C hapter o f R oeskilde h av in g received a rem uneration no do ubt sufficiently am ple. B u t, even after th is, p ro tests w e re a t v ario u s tim es m ade by the B ishops against the rig h t and title o f the K ings to this city, till the-

3

R eform ation cam e an d a t once p u t an end to all disputes. As a tow n, then, Copenhagen dates only from the 13th c en tu ry , and as a city since 1443 only, w hen C h risto p h er o f B av aria selected it as the ro y a l residence, and it h as continued to be the cap ital for now 4 0 0 years. C openhagen, the m etropolis o f the K ingdom o f D e nm a rk , and the seat o f a B ishoprick, is situate p a rtly on th e E astern coast of the island o f Sealand, at the Southern extrem ity of a n arrow channel connecting th e C atteg at w ith the B altic, called the S o u n d , w hich is here a b o u t 2 0 m iles b r o a d , and p a rtly on the N orthern coast o f the sm all island of A m ag er or A m ak : b u t th is latter p a rt b ears the nam e of Christianshavn. It lies 5 0 0 m iles N. E. of L o ndo n in 5 5 ° 4 2 ' N. la t, and 12° 3 4 ' E. lo n g ; is abou t 5m iles in circum ference, I T/s in le n g th , and IV 4 in breadth . T h e town, from the S. W . to the S. E. is inclosed by ram p arts and m oats, and defended by 2 4 b a stio n s, besides out­ w o rk s, and tow ards the sea by the strong citadel o f Frederikshavn. T h e pow erful batteries Tre- kroner (T hree C rowns — the union of D enm ark, N o rw ay , and Sw eden), and Sextus comm and the entrance to the h a rb o u r. It m ay here be observed th a t the Trekroner battery, w hich dealt such havoc am ong L ord N elson's fleet a t the battle o f Co- l '

4

penhagen, A pril 2d., 1801 , and w hich w as never silenced, w as a t th a t tim e , altho ugh comm enced in 1784, in an unfinished sta te : its bulw arks w ere then m uch low er and of w o o d , n o r did it m ount so m any guns as now. T h e p o p u latio n , according to the last census (1850) is 129,6 95, o f w hich 6 0 ,5 9 2 are m ales, and 6 9 ,1 0 3 are fem ales: the Jew s num b er 2 5 0 0 . In consequence o f its in crease, and the lim its o f the tow n being confined by the ra m p a rts , the w ant o f building space is becom ing a serious e v il : the alread y lofty houses are consequently raised by an additional sto ry or tw o , and buildings erected in the y a rd s a t the b a c k , to m eet the dem and for dwellings. T h e port, form ed by a channel or arm of the sea, is one o f the m ost capacious and comm odious in the w o rld , capable o f containing abo ut 5 0 0 m erch ant-sh ips, besides the N a v y ; and, b y the aid of can als, vessels can pass alm o st into the centre of the tow n, to the g reat advantage o f comm erce. T he finest aspect of C openhagen is, doubtless, from the se a , and altogether it m ust be pronounced a very handsom e city. T h e clim ate is dam p, variable, and u n h e a lth y : still the unhealthiness of Copenhagen is certainly in a great degree ow ing to an entire absence o f all sanatory im prov em ents, the w ant of w hich is now

5

beginning to be felt, and th eir adoption appreciated, b y th e in h a b ita n ts: the w a te r, from w ant o f any filtering p rocess for rem oving its im purities, is o f a pernicious q u ality ; the sew erage m o st defectiv e; the m o rtality v ery g reat — indeed it has been said to be g re ater th an in an y tow n o f E u ro p e, V ienna excepted. T h e official retu rn s shew th a t in the five m onths ending Ja n u a ry 2 9 th . the b irths w ere 1890, and the deaths 2 1 4 4 , (being an excess of 2 5 4 deaths over b irth s), o f w hich Consum ption claimed 21 1 , H ooping Cough 2 2 4 , Inflam m atory fever 2 69, S pasm s 2 3 5 . B ut th is , it m ust be confessed, w as a m ore th an usually u n h ealth y season. N otw ith­ standing, how ever, all these incentives to disease, and invitations, as it were, for the C holera to take up its abode here, it is a rem ark able fact th at this dreadfu l scourge has never y et visited C openhagen. T his h a s been endeavoured to be accounted for by som e to the absence of rivers and the presence of constant gales. So frequent are strong w inds here th a t a w itty Am erican once rem arked. "T h ere w as w ind enough in D enm ark for a country ten tim es its size.” T h e s e , h o w e v e r, cannot solely account for the non -visitation o f the cholera — we m ust acknow ledge the h and of P ro v id e n c e , and be thankful. B u t there is every hope th a t " a good tim e is com in g ,” and th at a v a st im provem ent will ere

6

long be effected. W h en the town shall b e , as, a fter deferring from y e a r to y ear, it is now finally decided it shall b e , supplied w ith pure w a ter and w ith pro p er se w e ra g e ; w hen its streets shall be lighted w ith gas, and its foot-w ays flag g e d ; w hen those abom inable n u isa n c e s, th e open d u st-carts, w hich prow l ab o u t th e tow n from m orning until night, shall be a b o lish e d ; w hen th e ram p a rts shall be levelled and a freer ventilation adm itted — then will Copenhagen be not only a m ore h e a lth y , b u t a m ore beau tiful c ity , able to vie in every respect w ith the other capitals of E urope. B u t, as the p avem ent is y e t m ost te rrib le , it m ay be well for strangers to bear in m ind a regulation for p ed estrian s: T h e fo o t-w ay is edged w ith a k e rb -sto n e, w hich, with the road on the riyht hand , the pedestrian is entitled to keep against all com ers, unless g allan try p rom pts him to give w ay to la d ie s, w hen the adage is rev ersed and "th e strongest goes to th e w all.” So tenacious are th e people o f this "rig h t,” th a t n either m an in buckram nor m an in livery w ill yield it to the finest g entlem an; th e p easan t w ill tu rn off the p rin c e , and the fish-fag the princess. With the road to the le ft , the rule is of course the c o n tra ry : you m ust then su rren d er the kerb to every one you m eet, gentle or sim ple: an attem p t to m aintain it ag ainst an im pertinent ap p ren tice

7

m ay lead to an un pleasan t re su lt, for he h a s the co u n try ’s law on his side. Sw ept crossings a re n o t un dersto o d ; so th a t in w et w eath er the w alking is doubly bad. A m an w ith a b room m ig h t m ake a fortune betw een the corner o f Ø sterg ade an d th e statue in K ongens N ytorv. Often h av e I suggested th is m ode of earning m oney to a p oor m an ask in g a lm s ; bu t the idea h as startled th e m : none w ill be th e first in such a novel undertaking. T here are two d ay s in the y ear, one in A pril, the other in O ctober, on w hich, " o r day before o r d ay after,” should a stran g er a rriv e in C openhagen he w ould be not a littleastonished.T h e tow n h a s th e ap pearance o f its inh ab itan ts flying w ith th e ir effects, as though an enem y w ere a t the gates. It is "F ly tted a g !” the h a lf y e arly m oving day, w hen e v ery fam ily in ev ery hou se m ay deposit in th e streets all the accum ulated dirt and filth o f the last six m o n th s , o f w hich th e p o o r contribute th eir q u o ta in the old straw stuffing ofth eir m attrasses w ith all th eir live s to c k ! Should it blow a gale o f w ind on th a t d a y , im agination can conceive th e scene w hich description w ould fail to paint. P eo p le a re h u rry in g to and fro — fu rn itu re driven an d carried in all directions — the g re atest confusion prevailing — one fam ily m oving th e ir effects into a set o f room s w hile the other .fam ily is m oving theirs o u t; fo r, a t 12 o’clo ck , the old occupants

8

must quit, and the new ones may take possession:. All is hurry scurry. 0 the m iseries of a "F lyttedag1” which none but those who have experienced can realize. Yet it would seem a pastime o f the people, for the whole town appears changing quarters on these days — a valid objection, one would suppose, to lodging on flats. But there is a day more remarkable, perhaps, than the "Flyttedag.” The fourth Friday after Easter is " Store Bededag ” or Great Prayer Day, a day more respected (though that is not saying much) than Sunday; for, in addition to other observances, an extra Service is held in all the churches. On the E ve o f this day the Church-bells toll from 6 to 7 o’clock, and the whole town turn out to promenade the ramparts during that hour. But, mirabile dictu ! the people them selves do not know for a certainty w h y they so strictly observe this day. Some suppose it was appointed as a day o f general thanksgiving because that about this time one o f the great fires, which have so often devastated the city, c ea sed : Others, because the ravages of a plague, were stayed: while not a few assert that one of their k in g s, (perhaps Christian IV.), being in great peril during a terrible storm , vowed to dedicate something to God if he reached land again. The ship weathered thp gale, and the Monarch returned in safety to his faithful subjects; so the day was

9

appointed to be observed as one of thanksgiving, an d called Store Bededag. B ut, h ow ev er involved in o bscurity m ay be th e origin of this day to th e people generally, th ere is little d ou b t b u t that, from its being regulated by the falling o f E aster, it is a m oveable Fast, a day set a p a rt for general R epen tance and P r a y e r, an d first ap pointed in the reign of F re d e rik IV ., a fte r the custom a t th a t tim e p rev alen t in G erm any. H ere and there in the neighbourhood o f the ram p a rts m ay be seen a cannon ball em bedded in the side o f a house or w a ll: — they are rem iniscences o f 1807. A fter the unfo rtu n ate bom bardm ent in th a t y ear, balls w ere taken by som e from, the ruins and inserted as above sta te d , w ith the inscription " Venskabs Minde ” (F riendship’s Memorial) upon them . T h e balls still rem ain, bu t tim e has effaced the inscription, as w e hope it h as all the ill-feelings o f the people w hich n atu rally resulted from th a t "u n tow a rd event.” T h e D a n e s , it m ust be ack n ow led g ed , are unquestionably a k ind -h earted , h ap p y , and contented people. T he higher classes are courteous and h o sp ita b le : the lo w e r, in d o le n t, bu t w ithal quiet and orderly. D iffering from our ideas o f correctness (though I offer no opinion on the subject) the ladies here sit constantly a t the w indow , outside o f which is u su ally fastened a reflectin g -g lass, so comm on

10 on the continent, in which may be seen what is passing in every part of the street; and as knitting, work which requires no attention, is the chief occupation of Danish ladies, they are enabled to amuse themselves at the same time by watching the movements of carriages and pedestrians. It is considered a want of politeness if friends do not look up to the houses in which their acquaintances reside in order to salute them as they pass, and even officers in command of troops will have their eyes and head turned constantly from house to house, unmindful of their men, bowing right and left, their sword following suit — which, to say the least, has a very unmilitary effect. The custom here mentioned is not, however, confined to the ladies of Denmark, it is common to all of Teutonic race on the continent. An immoderate love of finery prevails among the women of the middle and lower classes, red being the dominant colour; still the dresses of the peasant and Amager women are remarkably picturesque; the cauls or crowns of their little caps extremely handsome, the price of which varies from 3 marks to 10 dollars each, but they are occasionally ordered at higher prices, even to 50 dollars. The horses of the country, except those of Jutland, are small, but active; the hack carriages and cabs in general good; the carts or waggons

11 con stru cted on th e principle o f p rod ucin g the g re atest am o u n t o f noise as they rattle th ro u g h th e streets. S om e o f the leading trad esm en hav e m uch im proved th eir sh o p -fro n tag e w ithin the la st few y e a rs ; b u t still on the w hole the shops w ear a m ean appearance : p ainted signs are exhibited on m any, indicating the trad e carried on w ithin. A c­ c o rd in g to the statistics o f the tow n th ere a re : 12 A p o th ecaries; 98 B a k e rs; 5 0 B o o k se lle rs; 28 B re w e rs; 120 B u tc h e rs; 5 5 C onfectioners; 114 D istille rs; 125 G o ld sm ith s; 3 2 3 G ro c e rs; 9 1 9 S h o em ak e rs; 619 T a ilo rs; 7 4 W a tc h m a k e rs, etc. As y et A pothecaries and B ak ers are a privileged c la ss; only a certain n um b er o f each trad e being allow ed in town an d c o u n try : b u t, d o u b tless, the days o f m onopoly are n um bered. A pothecaries are n o t allow ed to sell poisonous d ru g s , w hich are k e p t b y the p rincipal u n d er lock and key, (nor m ay th ey be dispensed w ith o u t his know ledge and d irectio n), except on th e produ ctio n o f an order signed by a m edical m an. In 1 8 5 2 the n um b er of p ersons a rre ste d by the police am ounted to 3 0 1 1 ; am ong w hich w ere 561 m ales, and 112 fem ales, for drunkenness. In the y ear 1 8 48 the form o f g o v ernm en t w as changed from a D espotic to a C onstitutional M onarchy ; and all p ro p e rty before invested in the

12 S overeign becam e then, w ith a few exceptions, th e p ro p e rty o f the S tate. T h e R iysday , or D iet o f the K ingdom , is com posed o f two C h am b e rs, the Landsthiny, or U pper H o u s e , h a lf the m em bers o f w hich retire ev ery four y e a r s , an d th e Folke­ th iny, or L ow er H o u s e , w hich is triennial. T h e n um ber o f m em bers in the Landsthiny is 51, and in the Folkethiny 1 0 0 ; and each m em ber of b o th C ham bers receives 3 R bd. p e r diem , d u rin g the sitting o f the D ie t, an d reason ab le trav elling expenses. E v ery h o u se -k ee p e r above 3 0 y ears o f age h a s a vote in the election o f m em bers (the only qualification required is th a t o f being 2 5 y ears o f age) for the Folkethiny: and the sam e suffrage chooses ele cto rs, (1 by 1 4 9 , and 1 by every 100 a fte r, for each district), for electing m em bers (whose qualification m ust be an an n u al incom e o f 1 2 0 0 R b d ., or a n n u al paym ent o f 2 0 0 R bd. in ta x e s , and an age o f 4 0 years) for th e Landsthiny. T h e elections are lim ited to one and the sam e day th ro u g h o u t the kingdom . T h e re tu rn s for the last election in M arch shew th a t out of 9 8 m em bers chosen for the Folkethiny th ere w e re : 2 C o u nts; 7 P ro fe sso rs; 14 Civil Em p lo y es; 10 C lergym en; 5 School U sh ers; 2 O fficers; 3 T ra d e s­ m en ; 2 E d ito rs ; 37 P e a s a n ts , or sm all landed pro p rieto rs ; 11 C ountry School T e a c h e rs; 4 U ni­ versity G rad u ates, w ithou t occu pation ; 1 O perative.

13

T h e R eligion o f the C ountry is L u th e ra n ; but

all C reeds an d Sects are now tolerated.

E ducation is com pulsory. P o o r p aren ts p ay a nom inal sum w eekly for the education o f their child ren a t the G ov ernm en t scho ols; so th a t alm ost all th e low er class can read and w rite , m ore or less. Confirm ation, too, is com pulsory. Until th a t rite h a s been receiv ed , the y o u th o f b o th sexes a re , as it w e re , in statu pupillari; b u t, once re ce iv e d , th ey jum p from children to be m en and wom en. Certificates o f B aptism , Confirm ation, and V accin atio n , are a sine qua non to the entering on service, apprenticeship, m atrim ony, etc. T h e O ld-D anish is now nearly a dead language in its own C o u n try , as is O ld -E ng lish am ong ourselves. B ut the O ld -N o rth ern ch aracter o f the D anish is still a b u n d an tly e v id e n t, and the b est and m ost expressive, the m ost n atio nal and tuneful, o f all its w ords are O ld -N orth ern. N otw ithstanding, h ow e v er, the difference o f the elem ents b y w hich the two lang uages h av e been m odified, — the one by th e N o rm an , the o ther by the G erm an, — the E nglish and D anish m ay still be considered sister- m em bers o f the G othic group. T h e D an ish language, th e n , is by no m eans difficult of acquirem ent by an E nglishm an, still less so by a Scotchm an, or an in h ab itan t o f the N orth ern p a rt of England.

14

The number of British residents in Copenhagen,

including families, is at present about 100.

BRITISH LEGATION.

Andrew Buchanan, Esqr., Envoy Extraordinary

& Minister Plenipotentiary.

Frederick Doveton Orme, Esqr., Secretary of

Legation.

Viscount Pevensey, Attachd. Robert Stevenson Ellis. M. A. Chaplain.

Patrick Ferrall, Esqr., Vice-Consul, Nr. 41,

A. 1, Store Kongensgade.

Consul (for Denmark, resident at Elsinore)

Bridges Taylor, Esqr.

Vice-Consul, W. R. Larlham, Esqr.

"A

15

UNPAID VICE-CONSULS.

Odense (Fyen), Mr. E. B. Muus. Naskov (Laaland), \ Nykjøbing (Falster), > Mr. A. Hage. Stege (Møen), j Rønne (Bornholm), Mr. J. Michelsen. Thisted

en.

Frederikshavn Hjerting Randers

S T R E E T S , SQUARES, Ac,

T h e T ow n, w hich w as form erly divided into th ree p rin cip al districts — the Old T o w n , or W este rn q u a rte r; the New T o w n , or N o rth -ea ste rn q u arter, added in C hristian IV .’s tim e ; an d C h ristian sh av n — is now separated into 12 q u arters or 9 p arishes. It contains 2 5 8 Streets, 17 S q uares or P la c e s , and 3 5 0 0 h o u se s, excepting the N avy q u arter and the B arracks. T h e 4 E ntrances to the town by lan d are by the E ast, N orth, W est, and A m ager G ates, w hich rem ain open th ro u g h o u t the n ig h t; bu t a fte r 12 o’clock th ere is a charge for each person o f 2" Skillings. Starting from the N. E. part of the town: the principal Streets are Bredgade (Broad St.) or Norgesgade 3 extending from the Toldbodvei to Kongens Nytorv; Amaliegade , (parallel with Bredgade) divided by the Amalienborg Plads; Østergade (East St.) which leads from Kongens Nytorv to Amagertorv; whence Vimmelskaftet stretches to Gammeltorv, Frederiksberggade , and the Vesterport. In the N. W. part of the town

17

Goth.ersga.de (Gothic St.) conducts from the N ør­ revold to K ongens N y to rv , w h ere it jo in s Store Kongensgade (G reat K ing St.) w hich leads to the Ø ste rp o rt. Store Kiøbmagergade (G reat T rad in g St.) leads by w ay o f Lille Kiobmagergade across K u lto rv e t, and Frederiksborggade to the N ø r­ rep ort. T h e ch ief public S q u ares and P laces a re : 1) Amalienborg Plads or Frederiks P lad s , a han d som e octagon form ed b y four palaces o f u n ifo rm size and design. In its centre is the eq u estrian statue o f F re d e rik V. 2) St. Annce Plads or Garnisons Plads . 3) Kongens Nytorv, (T he K in g ’s New M arket) an irreg u lar sq uare and the larg e st in C openhagen. A n u nsigh tly equestrian statu e o f C hristian V ., rem ark ab le only for its siz e , stan ds in the centre. 4) Amagertorv and Høibroplads, m ark e ts for v e g etab le s, fru it, an d fish. 5) Gammeltorv and Nytorv, (Old and New M arket) w hich are in o n e , are m ark ets for field- produce, poultry, seed, and m eat. A sm all fountain play s in the m iddle. 6) Kultorv , w here tu rf or p e at is s o ld , in the neig hbo urho od o f N ørrepo rt. 7) Graabrødretorv (G rey F ria rs M arket) in w hich new sham bles h av e been erected. 8) Slotsplads , (Palace Place) on w hich stand C hristiansborg P alace, the C hapel R oyal, the E xchange, an d the so-called 2

18

Cancell i B uildings. 9) Hauserplads.

10) Halm

torv , hay and straw m arket.

T h e B ridges a re : Holmensbro , lead ing from H olm ens C anal to S lo tsp lad sen ; Høibro , connecting Ilø ib ro p lad s an d S lo tsp la d se n ; and Stormbro (som e­ tim es called the E nglish b rid g e ), Marmorbro , and Prindsensbro , w hich lead from the back of C h ristian sb org P alace over Slotsholm s C anal. Knipprlsbro and La.ngebro unite C openhagen and C h ristian sh av n ; and in C h ristiansh av n a re Børnr- buusbro, Snorrebro , and Wi/dersbro.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

CHURCHES.

F r u e k ir k e , or Church of our Lady, situate on an unfinished and neglected plot of ground in Nørregade, is the principal church, or Cathedral, of the City. After being more than once destroyed by fire, the last time at the bombardment of I807, when, on account of the height of the spire, it was a principal mark for the English shells, it was again re-bui r. and finished in 1829. It is a heavy structure, in a rather peculiar style, with a Doric portico far too small in proportion to the building: nor does the interior possess any architectural beauty. But it is adorned by the master-works of Thorvaldsen, and here lies its chief, if not only, attraction. In the pediment is a group in te r r a c o tta of 1 6 figures, representing John the Baptist preaching in the wilderness; and over the entrance to the church within the portico a b a s r e lie f of Christ’s entrance into Jerusalem. Entering the church the eye is immediately struck with the noble and colossal

20

statue in marble of our Saviour, placed in a niche at the back of the altar, by which, however, the effect is considerably diminished. On the pedestal is a quotation from St. Mat. XI. 28. In the centre of the chancel, before the altar, is the Font of polished marble — a con ch a held by a kneeling angel — a chaste, poetic, beautiful design. The first child baptized at this font was one of Professor Bissen's, himself a pupil of Thorvaldsen who stood sponsor; the King and Queen honoring the ceremony with their presence. The magnificent marble statues of the twelve Apostles adorn both sides of the church. The large b a s r e lic f in. the semicircular recess behind the altar represents our Saviour on his way to Golgatha; and in the confessionals on each side of the chancel are two more b a sre lic fs descriptive of the Saviour’s Baptism and the Last Supper. On either side of the entrance of the church is a beautiful b a s r e l i c f the one on the right repre­ senting Childhood’s Guardian Angel, the one on the left Christian Charity. Thus by Thorvaldsens grand productions the mind receives a reverential impression which the building itself fails to effect. It is said that the architect of the church, who, it would appear, looked with no friendly eye on the great sculptor, had prepared niches in the

21 walls in which to place the statues of the twelve apostles. Intelligence of this arrangement reaching Thorvaldsen at Rome, he, annoyed and indignant at what he knew would much diminish the effect which his statues would produce if standing free, obtained from home the height of the niches, and then, with a shrewdness peculiar.to him, made his statues so large that they could not be placed in them. The architect was, therefore, obliged to wall up the niches, and the sculptor obtained, what was really necessary for their proper effect, pedestals and free standing for his statues. The statue of our Saviour was originally made for the Palace chapel, but, as no suitable site there offered, and the apostles having been ordered for Fruckirke, it was deemed better not to separate the Saviour from them, and thus that statue came to be placed in the same church. But it seems that Thorvaldsen could not save it from the unfortunate niche, which is acknowledged by Danish and all judges of art to be very injurious to its effect. St. Petrikirkc, St. Peter’sy the church of the German Lutherans, in Norregade, nearly opposite Fruekirke, built in a quasi Gothic style, with a spire 260 feet in height. In the chapel and vaults are deposited the bodies of several English. Among them is that of Waiter Titiey , E sq r. , British Minister to this Court for many years , where he

22

closed his c a re e r, M arch 3. 1768. A legacy w as left by him for th e founding a C haplaincy o f L egation a t C openhagen. In the sm all chapel containing the sarco phagu s a ta b le t, placed by his friend M r. Weston, b ears an inscription to his m em ory. T h e rem ains o f the talented a u th o r o f a n Icelan dic-E nglish D ictionary, Richard Clcasby , Esqr . , a re also h e re deposited — cut off in the p rim e o f life w hen he h ad n early b ro u g h t his lab o rio u s task to its conclusion. T h is valuable w ork , the fruits o f an assiduous an d enthusiastic scho lar’s la b o rs , w ill, it is h o p e d , for the sake o f N o rth ern lite ratu re and the m em ory of the deceased, th ro u g h the exertions o f those w ho have u nd ertak en its com pletion, in a sh o rt tim e be published. Trinitatiskirke, Trinity , or, as it is som etim es called, the Round Church, situate a t the top o f K io bm ag e rg ad e , w as b uilt by C hristian IV . T he A ltar an d P u lp it are richly ornam ented w ith carved oak-w ood. B u t th a t w hich m ost m erits attentio n is the R ou nd T o w e r, 115 ft. h ig h , considered to be unique in E u ro p e , constructed from a p lan o f T ycho B ra h e ’s favorite disciple C hristopher L ong o- m o ntan us. It is ascended by a b road inclined spiral p la n e , u p w hich P e te r the G reat is said to have driven w ith his C o n so rt, C atharine, in a carriag e - a n d -fo u r — a fe a t, afte r a ll, o f no very difficult

23

accomplishment. On the summit is an Observatory, but it has not been used for many years. The University Library is in a room over the church, the entrance to which is in this tower, from whose exterior summit there is a line view over town and country. On the upper part of the tower, above the entrance, is the following quaint inscription:

(Doctrinam et justitiam dirige Jehovah in corde regis Christiaui Quarti. 1642).

24

T h e tow er is open to the public on W ed n esd ay s

and S atu rdays from 12— 1.

In the C h u rch y ard is a sim ple tom b to the A R unic m onum ent o f v ery ancient date stands n e ar the sacristy. Hclliggeisteskirke, or Church o f the Holg Ghost , is in V innnelskaftet. In th is chu rch is a p a in tin g , by Adam M u ller, o f L u th e r b efore th e D iet a t W orm s. Slotskirke 3 or Palace Church , adjoins the P alace o f C hristiansborg, and is adorned by sev eral w orks o f T h orvaldsen and B issen. Holmenskirhe, Holm or Island Church , on the H olm ens C an al, was built by C hristian IV . as a place o f w orship for the N avy. It is o rn a ­ m ented by richly carved oak-w ood. In th e chapel lie the rem ains o f D enm ark ’s tw o g reatest N aval heroes, Niels Juul and Peter Tordenskjold. T h e initials — R. P . P . — over the clock are tho se o f K ing C hristian’s m otto — Regna firmat Pietas. m em ory o f the p o e t, Jo h a n n e s Ew ald.

Garnisonskirke, Garrison Church, b u ilt in

1704, chiefly for the use o f the M ilitary.

Frelserskirke , Church o f our Saviour, b u ilt betw een 1 6 8 2 an d 1 6 9 4 , in C h ristian sh av n . O n the w alls o f th e tow er are fig u re s , la rg e r th an life , o f the four E vang elists. A bove this is a g allery from w hich an extern al sp ira l staircase ascends to the sum m it o f the S te e p le , 3 0 0 feet high. On the top is a globe 8 feet in diam eter, ab o v e w hich is the figure o f o u r S av io u r in copper, 10 feet in h e ig h t, holding in one h a n d a v an e as th e flag o f victory. T h e o rg an in this church is a fine in strum e n t, an d o rn am ented w ith a g re a t q u a n tity o f richly carved w ood. T h e a lta r is also handsom e, the low er p a rt com posed o f Italian m arble w ith a rep resen tatio n o f C hrist’s sufferings in the g a rd en o f G ethsem ane. T h e p u lp it is o f fine m a rb le ; and the font also o f p u re w hite m arble, v ery c h a s te , on w hich is a b eautifully scu lp tu red re p re ­ sentation o f the B aptism o f ou r S a v io u r by St. Jo h n . In this and two or three o th er chu rch es the g allery seats are divided into boxes, giving the ap pearance m ore o f a th eatre th an a place o f w orship. Frederikskirke, also in C h ristian sh av n , erected 1756, used by the G erm an residen ts o f th a t locality. T h e German and French Reformed, Church, a sm all, old, building, the in terio r o f w hich is v e ry neat, is situate in G othersgad e. E rected in 1668.

26 The Chapel o f the Garrison in the Citadel,

b uilt in 1704.

T h e Chapel o f Vartou Hospital in L o n -

gangstrsede.

It is in contem plation to build a church in the su b u rb s for the benefit o f the in h ab itan ts o f th e N o rre - an d 0 ste r-B ro . A ll the sittings will be f r e e ; and the church will be b uilt by v o lun tary contributions — the first so b u ilt in D enm ark . British Chapel. D ivine Service is perform ed for the p re sen t in the low er p a rt o f a building, used fo rm erly as a S y n a g o g u e , a t N r. 5 1 , S to re K o ngensgade. T h e Rev. R. S. Ellis. M. A ., C haplain o f the B ritish L egation, officiates. D . S. comm ences at 1 1 o’clock. L ong im pressed w ith the feeling o f the u tte r un suitableness o f the p resen t building as a place o f D ivine w orship, a comm ittee has at last been form ed for receiving contributions tow ards the erecting a church of our own — a building m ore suited to the w orship of G o d , and m ore w orth y o f th e E nglish nam e and nation. T h e attentio n o f E nglish trav ellers is especially requested to the a d d ress issued by the C om m itte e , placed on the C hurch doors, and in the principal hotels.

27

The Roman Catholic Chapel in B redgade, erected in 1842 at the expense of the E m p ero r of A ustria.

The Synagogue in K ry s ta lg a d e , finished in

1832, is considered a h andsom e building.

Am ong the E cclesiastical b uildings m ay be m entioned the r u in s , o r ra th e r the unfinished stru cture o f , as it is called , the Marble Church, in B redgade. T h is building w as comm enced in the reig n o f F red erik V. T h e dom e w as to h a v e risen 2 6 4 feet above the level o f the g ro u n d ; the w a lls, inside an d o u tsid e, w ere to be of polished N orw egian m a rb le ; an d the w hole w as to h av e been finished on the g ra n d est scale. A fter tw enty y ears a stop w as p u t to fu rth er pro ceed in gs; the g re a t expense b e in g , no d ou b t the valid reason; alth o u g h it w as alleged th a t the superstru ctu re w as, or w ould be, too h eav y for th e foundation. M ost o f the churches hav e b u rial g ro und s a tta c h e d , (w h ich , how ever, ow ing to the san ato ry refo rm s lately in tro d u c ed , a re no lo nger to be u s e d ), an d in addition each p a rish h as its cem etry outside the N o rth -g a te , in the style o f P e re la Chaise a t P aris. T h e M ilitary an d N aval B u rial- gro u n d s a re on the Ø sterbro. U nder a pin e-clad

28

m ound in th e latter rest the rem ains o f those officers (2 C aptains — 8 L ieutenants) w ho fell for th eir coun try in the bloody b attle o f C openhagen, A pril 2d., 1801. A n ivy -co v ered pillar, hew n from a block o f N orw egian m a rb le , facing the E ast, tow ards th e Sound, b ears the follow ing in scrip tio ns : DE FALDT FOR FÆDRENELANDET DEN 2» en APRIL, 1801. (They fell for the land of their fathers, April 2d.f 1801). MEDBORGERES ERKJENDTLIGHED REISTE DEM DETTE MINDE. (The gratitude of their fellow -citizens erected to them this memorial). A nd, below a carv ed w reath on the pedestal : DEN KRANDS SOM FÆDRELANDET GAV — DEN VISNER E l PAA FALDEN KRIGERS GRAY. (The wreath their Native-country gave ne’er withers On the fallen warriors’ grave.) T h e nam e o f each o fficer, as w ell as o f th e ship in w hich he se rv e d , a re inscribed on larg e stones placed a t the base o f the m ound.

CHRISTIAÏTSB ÖE.& PALACE.

PALACES.

Christiansbory Pa lace, th e residence o f his p re sen t M ajesty w hen in to w n , lies on the Slots- ho lm , (castle isle), on the sam e spot w h ere stood th e castle, as before related, built by A x e l IIvide (Bishop Absolon) in« 1 1 6 8 , called from him A x e fh u u s , to keep the p irates in aw e. T his C a stle , w hich su b sequently obtained the nam e o f Kiabenhavn S lo t, h a v in g been a t a considerable expense em bellished by C hristian III. and F red erik IV ., w as, on the accession o f C hristian V I ., razed to th e g ro u n d , in o rd er th a t a R oyal residence m ight, on a m ore m agnificent scale, be erected on its site. T his p a la c e , on the n ig h t o f the 27 th . of F eb. 1794, fell a p re y to the flames. T h e p re sen t building w as comm enced in the reign o f C hristian V II., an d finished durin g th a t o f F red erik V I. On the w estern side o f the palace th e larg e exterior co u rt form s a rid in g -g ro u n d , enclosed on b oth sides by reg u lar buildings w ith p ia z z a s, in w hich a re contained the C ourt th eatre,

30

carriage-hoifees, stables, and riding-house. These buildings escaped the fire of 1T94. O ver the p rin cip al en tran ce from the S lo tsp lads is the follow ing in sc rip tio n :

Regiarn hanc Christianus Sextus exstruxit incendio funesto post LIV annos vastatam denuo erigi Christianus Septimus jussit splendidam restituit et inter Publica vota dicavit Fredericus Sextus MDCCCXXVIII.

on each side of which are two b a sre lie fs by Thor­ valdsen : Minerva and Prometheus, Hercules and Hebe; Jupiter and Nemesis, Hisculapius and Hygsea: and in niches on each side of - the entrance are four colossal figures of Hercules, Minerva, vEscu- lapius, and Nemesis; the first by Thorvaldsen, the others from his drawings by Prof. Bissen, and cast in metal by Dalhoff. JEsculapius arid Hygiea are indebted to their appearance in the b a s r c lie f to an amusing circum­ stance. In the list of suitable deities sent in to Thorvaldsen was Somdhedsgudinde (Goddess of Truth); but the Sculptor, unable to imagine any allegorical figure satisfactory to himself by which he could represent the Goddess, chose to read the word as Swndhedsgudinde (Goddess of Health); and thus it was that iEsculapius and Hygsea formed the subject of the basrelief! Am ong the m an y su perb apartm en ts, the m ost

31

con sp icu ous are the Hiddersal ( Knight’s-hall), 120 feet lo n g , 4 4 feet h ig h , and 50 feet broad, w ith a g allery su p p o rted by C orinthian co lum n s; a n d Kongm s Throngemak (the King’s Throne Room') ad orned w ith 4 larg e p ainting s by P ro f. E ck e rsb e rg , re p re se n tin g scenes o f D anish history. T h e palace also contains Statsraadsalen (the Council Chamber), and ap artm en ts in w hich bo th cham bers o f the D iet hold th eir sittings. In the u p p e r p a rt o f the building is the R oyal G allery of P aintin gs. It will surely strik e every stran g er th a t th ere m u st have been g re at v an ity in the M o n a rc h , or g re a t w an t o f ju d g m e n t, p e rh ap s a propensity to ila tte r, in the architect, w hich raised a building so disp ropo rtioned to the size, population, w ealth, and pow er of the country. Rosenborg Palace , b u ilt by Christian IV., from a design of, so it is considered, Inigo Jones, in 1604, as a sum m er residence. At th a t tim e it w as situ ated outside the city ; b u t w ithin four years, in consequence o f the N orthern lim its o f the tow n being extended, the palace w as enclosed by the ram p arts. It is b u ilt in the G othic style, sim ilar to the palace of F re d e rik sb o rg , and has a large tow er tow ards the W ., tw o sm aller ones to the E., each w ith a spire, an d a fo urth betw een

32

the two last, without a spire, in which is the entrance. Among its contents may be mentioned the Coin and Medal Cabinet; the Regalia; a fine collection of Venetian glass; the famous silver-gilt Drinking Horn of Oldenburg; and the celebrated set of horse-furniture, with sword and pistols, presented by Christian IV. to his eldest son on his marriage in 1664: the saddle and bridle are of velvet embroidered with gold and pearls, the buckles set with diamonds, &c. — the whole was made in Paris at a cost of one million of francs! The Riddersal, in which is a massive silver throne, is covered with tapestry representing the various battles in which Christian V. was engaged. T h e o b jects, o f g re a t in terest as illu stra tin g the h isto ry o f D enm ark, are a rra n g e d in se p a ra te room s according to the reigns du rin g w hich th ey have been collected. R osen b o rg is som ew hat sim ila r, th o u g h on a sm aller s c a le , to the G rüne G ew ölbe o f D re sd e n ; and its contents give proofs o f the lux u ry and w ealth w hich in olden tim es reigned in D enm ark. This palace has always been considered a b ijou by the English traveller. The charge is 3 rbd., but a party of 12 persons may view it for that sum.

33

Charlottenborg Palace, situate on K ongens N y to rv a t the co rner o f N yhavn , w as built in 1672, by C ount U lrik G yldenlnve. A fter the death o f C hristian V. it w as p u rchased as a residence for the Queen D ow ager C harlotte Am alie, and from h er has its p resen t nam e. F red erik V. m ad e a g ra n t o f it for an A cadem y o f A rts, w hich w as founded by him in 1 7 5 4 ; an d in 1 788 the garden o f the palace w as presented to the U n iv ersity for the form ation o f a B otanical G arden. T h e annu al E xhibition of P aintin gs is open from the 1st. o f A pril, for a b o u t six w eeks. The Palaces on the Amalienborg, four in num ber, form , w ith th eir offices, a com plete octagon, united on the south side by a colonnade. T h ey w ere comm enced in 1 7 5 0 , an d finished nearly at the sam e tim e at the expense, and for the residence, o f 4 noble fam ilies, M oltke, Scliack, L ew etzau, and Brockdorfl*. A fter the destruction o f C hristiansborg in 1 7 9 4 , th ey becam e the residences o f the K ing and C o u r t, and so continued till the death o f C hristian V III. in 1 8 4 8 . A t present tw o o f the palaces are occupied by the Queen D ow ager C aroline Am alie and the L and grave o f H esse. T he th ird , to the right of the colo nnade, is now assigned as a residence for the Minister o f Foreign Affairs, and for the High Court o f Justice: and the 3

fourth, on the left side, occupied by the High Steward of the court, and the necessary offices. P r in d s e n s P a la c e 3 is situate at the corner of Ny-Vestergade and Frederiksholms Canal, opposite the Marmorbro, at the back of Christiansborg. This palace originally belonged to a rich merchant, Wi- gandt Mychelbecker, but was purchased by Frederik IV ., and served as the residence of Christian V. and Frederik V I., when Crown Princes. Later it has been occupied by several princes related to the royal family and allotted as free residence to various court favorites. It is now the property of the State, and affords, for the present, accommodation for the High Court of Judicature, the Society of Rural Economy, the Royal Museum of Art, and several other public collections. These will be mentioned in their place.

GOVERNMENT AND MUNICIPAL BUILDINGS.

(Jan eellib ygn irtffern e , th e C a n c e tti - b u ild in g s, situate on the S lotsholm to the w est o f the E x­ c h a n g e , consist o f a large m ain - b uilding, raised by F red erik I V ., w hose b ust in m arble is placed ov er the e n tra n c e , and o f three other buildings added to it in later tim es. H ere are the offices o f the v ario u s M in isters, except th a t o f the M arine, w hich is still at G amm elholm . T h e C ancelli-building is united to C hristiansbo rg by a C orridor. In the p a rt n e are st the c o rrid o r, opposite to the palace, th ere still stands a m assive fabric o f m asonry — w alls of vast thickness: these are the last rem ains of the old K io b e n h a v n s S lo t ; and here the P riv y A rchives of the State and of the R oyal .Fam ily are deposited. D eeds o f considerable antiquity are here accum ulated in room s w hich m ay decidedly be considered as fire-proof. O f the M edeci, of the S tu arts , o f the B artho lom ew m assacre and m any o ther historical events we here find the authentic records. T he oldest original docum ent, according to :r

a statem ent kindly supplied by the K eeper of H is D anish M ajesty ’s P riv y A rc h iv e s, the C hevalier Wegener 3 is a L etter from the A rchbishop Adel- bertj o f the X V IIth . K alends (16th. Ju ly ) 1059. T his L etter trea ts o f a gift which the N un R ikqvur had m ade to the H am b u rg h C h u rc h , to w i t , an estate n e ar Stade in the Ditmarsh. In the adjoining buildings are the L ife In su rance E stablishm ent and the S tam p Office. in N y to rv , w as built in the reign of C hristian V II. T h e foundation stone w as laid by the C row n P rince (afterw ards F red erik V I.) on the 28 th. Sept. 180 5, and the building w as finished in 1815. A bove the chief entrance is the follow ing in scrip tio n : "M ed L ov skal m an L and b y gge,” (w ith law m ust the land be built) w ords w hich head the code of the Ju tlan d L aw o f V aldem ar the Second. Among the num ero us offices contained in this building m ay be m entioned the M unicipal Council C ham ber, the Police and C rim inal C ourts, the P a ss Office, and Office o f the only N otary P u b lic in the C apital. Borsen , the E xchange , on the S lotsplads, is one o f the m any buildings for which the C ity is Raad- og Domhuset , the Town-Hail and Court House j

THE EXCHANGE

indebted to C hristian IV . 1 6 2 2 , and finished in 1624.

It w as comm enced in

T h e length is 406

feet, the b read th 66 ft. A t the principal entrance, from the S lo tsp lad s, a re four pillars of Italian m arble, w ith tw o statues representing M ercury and N eptune, one on each side. T he roof of the building, 176 ft. high, is o f lead, and surm ounted by a v ery rem ark ab le spire form ed of four d r a g o n s , w ith their h eads pointing tow ards the four corners o f the g lo b e, and th eir bodies entw ining each other till the tails come to a p oin t at the t o p , so as to form the sp ire , w hich is term inated by three balls and th ree crow ns, w ith a vane above. A t the end o f the H all, in w hich the m erchants assem ble from 2 to 4 o’clock, is a large painting representing C hristian IV . visiting T ycho B rahe on H veen island in 1 592 . Adjoining the H all are an A uction room , and a p artm en ts for the S ea In su ran ce and M ercantile A ssociation. T he centre of the building is arrang ed as a so rt o f B azar. A t the E astern end is the H ouse and P ro p e rty In su ran ce Office. T he vaulted cellars of the E xchange are occupied by retail dealers in iron, h em p , flax , salt, & c ., and have th eir entrance from the street bordering the canal. Banken The Bank 3 on the w est side of the E xchange, and connected w ith it by a corridor, w as erected tow ards the end o f the 18th. century.